In Antwerp

Unlike Bruges, Antwerp is a much livelier city that people actually live in and a good deal less touristy. Belgium is so small that every where is only an hour or two away by train so that is an excellent base and much cheaper city to stay than Brussels.

Once Bruges declined as a city, Antwerp flourished and during the 16th was one of the world's great cities accounting for 40% of world trade and with a population of 200,000 was the second largest city (after London) in northern Europe. However, the city sided with the Dutch rebels in 1575 and when the Spanish retook the city in the same year, 7000 people died and the city was badly damaged. The final blow was the exile of the Protestants who moved with their skills and money to Amsterdam. From that point on Antwerp suffered a steep decline and by 1800 the population was down to 40,000. Today though Antwerp is now the commercial heart of Belgium.

The city is a very pleasant mix of historical and modern buildings, a lively shopping centre and plenty of bars and restaurants. 

Naturally in Belgium you must drink Belgian beer and eat waffles, but I draw the line at the small and tasteless Belgium mussels.