What goes on here?

Although the sign indicates that this is a factory, so little is manufactured in Kurdistan that I find that very hard to believe. All the cigarettes I have seen have been made elsewhere.

Most men smoke, and it always comes as a surprise when someone says they don't smoke. Women smoke too, but not as much as men and almost never in public. Generally they are thoughtful about not smoking inside, plenty of places have no smoking signs and most cafes and restaurants have non-smoking and smoking areas so overall it isn't too bad.

The Ukrainian crisis and Kurdish independence - there is a connection

For years, the Kurdish Government (KRG) and the central government in Baghdad had a clear arrangement - all Iraqi oil revenues would go through the central government and the KRG would receive a fixed portion of the oil money. This worked reasonably well, though the Kurds also 'casually' exported about 40,000 barrels of oil a day, mainly by truck overland to Turkey and 'forgot' to hand this money over to Baghdad. Late last year a pipeline from the Kurdish oil fields to the Turkish port of Ceyhan was completed and early this year oil began to flow.

Then the central government decided to take into account the 'casual' exports of oil from Kurdistan and deducted it from the KRG's overall oil revenue. A bitter row ensured and in January of this year Baghdad suspended all oil payments to the KRG causing a major financial crisis in Kurdistan (which is still on going). Meantime oil began to be stock piled at Ceyhan as Baghdad and the KRG could not find a solution despite mediation by Turkey..

Then came the crisis in the Ukraine and Western Europe was sharply reminded of its dependency on Russian oil and gas. Looking for an alternative source of oil, the European attention focused both on the stockpile at Ceyhan and the pipeline from Kurdistan.

But who actually owns the oil stockpiled in Turkey? Baghdad or KRG.? This question was dramatically answered this week when the Kurds sold one million barrels, which as we speak is sailing towards Western Europe. Badgdad is naturally furious and is planning to take legal action, but in reality the Kurdish action must have had tacit support from Turkey, the US and the EU.

So what has this to do with Kurdish Independence? Now that the KRG can control both the delivery and the sale of oil from Kurdistan, it finally has its own direct source of income and no longer has to rely on Baghdad. After years of autonomy full independence is now possible. Whether Turkey, the US and the EU supports this next step is uncertain. Turkey is certainly not keen on an independent Kurdistan adjoining it's own Kurdish territory (nor is Iran) and the US wants to keep Kurdistan inside Iraq to ensure some sort of balance and stability. On the other hand the EU and the US want a reliable source of oil and Kurdistan can provide this.

The Kurds are now talking openly about a referendum on independence, a referendum which would clearly be overwhelmingly in favour of a free state. But this is the Middle East and nothing is what it seems. The Kurds are unlikely to declare independence and leave the disputed territories of Kirkuk and Khanaquin inside Arab Iraq. Are they just playing a long game to grab an even greater share of Iraq's oil revenue, hoping that Baghdad will concede in order to keep the country together? Guess we will just have to wait and see.

Wheelchair ramp?

This seemingly suicidal wheelchair ramp is in the Rand Gallery mall near where I live. There is no way anyone could get a wheelchair either up or down this steep set of steps and besides, the footpaths and streets are so wheelchair unfriendly,  a person in a wheelchair could never even get to the mall. Come to think of it I have only seen one person in a wheelchair and he was a gypsy begging so it was unlikely that he even needed a wheelchair.

The bucket is to catch leaks when it rains. All buildings here have flat roofs and most are poorly constructed  - it is a rare building that doesn't leak. In this instance the ceiling has crumbled and great chunks are missing.

Pittosporum tobira

In this tough climate, there are few plants that can be recommended for New Zealander gardens but one such plant is Pittosporum tobira, the Japanese Pittosporum. It has tough glossy leaves much like coprosma and daphne-like flowers that are highly scented. It likes a dry well drained situation (I guess 6 months of no rain and hot weather qualifies) and can be trimmed or pruned hard. It is frequently grown as a standard and would really suit a pot. It is also used as a hedge.

A couple of near misses....

Security forces have intercepted two bombers this week.

Early in the week, a car packed with explosives and guns was stopped near the Asaish headquarters and three men arrested. This is where I went for my security check just a couple of weeks ago. However, they weren't very bright bombers and didn't do their home work as there is no vehicular access to the headquarters and you also go through a security check at each end of the street. Just what they intended to blow up is anyone's guess.

The second incident was much closer to home and this time the target was the city's only Shiite mosque which is just 400 metres down the road and which I walk pass all the time. Yesterday a man left a backpack with 10kg of explosive inside the mosque. However, as he tried to leave, other worshipers noticed the pack and alerted the guard who held the man until the Asaish could arrive. The only comment that the police have made was that the man spoke Farsi, which indicates he is likely to be Iranian AND Shiite.

There are several reasons that the Kurdish regions is very safe. One of the key factors is that Kurdish nationalism trumps everything, else so the threats are external rather than internal. The border between Arab Iraq and Kurdistan is heavily patrolled and beyond that there are numerous checkpoints on internal main roads. Moreover, local people are very alert to any possible trouble. The joke here is that all the 3000 taxi drivers work for the Asiash, but there is a lot of truth in that. You have much less trouble traveling by taxi as the security forces are well aware that taxi drivers will alert them to any dodgy passengers. The same goes for hotels, motels and other accommodation and locals will also alert the security forces to anything they think is unusual - a strange car parked too long or people behaving suspiciously.

Another factor is that the Asaish and security forces in general are very professional, well trained,  experienced and fiercely protective of Kurdistan. These are not play soldiers.

Security of late is much more noticeable and it seems just as well.

The Mattress Maker

There are just two traditional mattress makers left in Slemani, the rest swept away by cheap imports from Asia and Turkey.The traditional cloth is unbleached cotton, but he has kept up with the times (to some extent) and has available mattresses with colourful coverings. The stuffing is raw cotton which is shredded in the small shed and then he hand sews the covering and the shape. At first I thought the mattresses looked very hard, but they are exceptional soft and comfortable. While there is a standard mattress, you can have a custom made mattress and you can even bring your own cloth and he will make up the mattress. .

Likewise he makes pillows and again there is a standard version, but you can also have a softer or harder pillow. Pillows are sold by weight.

I walk pass this modest building frequently and the good news is that he always seems to be busy. Might be a bit tricky getting one home on the plane.

Kurds and White Utes

Kurds just love white utes and they are every where. Utes are great for packing not only goods, but are perfect for their large families. I saw six women jammed into the rear seat of one ute. White is popular as the colour that shows dust the least ...... and it is very dusty here.

The following photos were taken over just 15 minutes and are only a sample of the white utes that went past. Needless to say safety isn't a big issue.

Minister of Coordination and Follow-up

The Kurdish Regional Government (KRG) has a Ministry of Coordination and Follow-up - I can't even imagine what that Minister does all day....

The Iraqi Elections

The provisional results for the Iraqi elections held last month were finally released yesterday at 3pm. Heavily armed soldiers and extra police were deployed around the city, but everything was very calm and by 7pm they had drifted off home.

The Iraqi Parliament has 320 seats and the Shiite parties supporting Mr Malaiki have emerged as the largest party with 92 seats, an increase on the previous elections. The Sunni parties remain divided while the Kurdish bloc has increased their number of seats to 92.

Malaiki now has to find another 90 seats to form a government and his problem is that several of the larger parties, including the Kurds, have publicly declared that they would not support Malaiki for a third term. But politics is politics and now the horse trading begins with some pundits commenting that it could take until the end of the year to form a new government. Even now the Kurdish region is still without a final government despite the elections being held in last September.

While the elections were reasonably fair, the immediate prospects for Iraq is continuing chaos. 

Weeds

As we all know, weeds are just plants in the wrong place, but when I first came to Slemani I thought the gardens were unkempt and overgrown with little care given to weeding or pruning.

Now having experience most of a year here, I have endless admiration for every green thing that manages to grow here.

Winters are short but brutal, with heavy frosts and snow. Spring is a mere two months, March and April. In that short time every things must sprout, grow, and flower. It is only mid-May and already the temperatures are in the mid-30s, with the last rain over two weeks ago. The prospect of more rain diminishes by the day and it is now likely to be bone dry until November (maybe a chance thunderstorm if we are lucky) For the next five months the daily temperature will be mostly above 40c and humidity under 15%.

Autumn brings another growing period but is extremely short, from the first rains in early November to the cold days of December.

And yet plants survive this climatic hell and anything that manages to grow at all demands respect. To pull up a plant for being 'in the wrong place' or even to call it a 'weed' seems peevish and very mean spirited.

Already most wild plants have gone to seed and are rapidly dying and drying off. One exception are hollyhocks whcih grow in the most unlikely places and bring a great splash of green and colour.

Cruising in Kurdistan

Yesterday in the pool I was helping a Kurd, Dana, with his swimming and he started talking about his car, saying he owned a 1968 Cadillac. Between my limited Kurdish and his bad English, I just assuming I was getting it wrong as I have never seen an old classic car here - just rubbish old wrecks driven by Iranians. Besides he was very young and a digger driver, so I found it hard to believe he could afford a car like that.

 However, he was determined to show me the car and to my complete surprise it was a 1968 Cadillac and in amazing condition. All the trim was still there and the original upholstery was in incredibly condition.

Dana said he had bought it in Kirkuk but it had originally come from Faluja and insisted on taking me for a  ride back to my motel down the main street. So off we set in this huge old car driving down Salim Street feeling very cool. Just as well petrol here is only .50c a litre.

Remember that song where the lyrics lament: "at the age of 37 she realised that she would never  never drive through Paris in sport car...." Driving through Slemani in a 1968 Cadillac was way better than that!

My phone takes very good pictures during the day, but very bad photos at night.

Some people never learn..... Report from Middle East Online

		The United States plans to sell nearly $1 billion worth of warplanes, armored vehicles and surveillance aerostats to Iraq. The deal includes 24 AT-6C Texan II light-attack aircraft, a turboprop plane manufactured by Beechcraft that has .50 caliber machine guns, advanced avionics and can carry precision-guided bombs, the Pentagon said. "The proposed sale of these aircraft, equipment and support will enhance the ability of the Iraqi forces to sustain themselves in their efforts to bring stability to Iraq and to prevent overflow of unrest into neighboring countries," the agency said in a notice. The sale is the latest in a series of US weapons deals with Iraq as Baghdad seeks to bolster its armed forces amid rising violence linked to Al-Qaeda militants and sectarian divisions between the Shiite-led government and disgruntled Sunnis. Iraq has previously agreed to purchase 36 US F-16 fighter jets. This week's deal also included 200 "up-armored" Humvee vehicles with machine gun mounts, worth $101 million. The vehicles will help "Iraq's ability to defend its oil infrastructure against terrorist attacks," the agency said. Really makes you wonder. It was the Americans who armed Saddam Hussein in the 1980s during his war against Iran. Will history repeat itself?

Chickpeas are here!

Every where at the moment, street vendors are selling fresh chickpeas, a new taste for me. The chickpeas are sold on the plant and the bunch I am holding cost .50c. The peas themselves are in small pods containing one or two peas. Naturally they have a pea taste, but much milder and the texture is crunchy. You then just wander along the street shelling the peas and working your way through the bunch. Very tasty, healthy but the street is a mess.

Camel love

Normally I dislike cute animal pics  and apparently many of the animals are drugged up to get those cosy photos. However,  I couldn't resist posting these pics sent to me by Saudi friend Sami with his family's camels.

Camels have such a bad reputation as bad tempered, spitting and biting animals (much like horses), but these ones clearly love Sami.

Small box retailing

 One of the appealing things about Kurdistan is the mix of traditional and modern which pops up every where. Retail runs the gamut from street vendor to modern mall. Here an elderly Kurd pushes his barrow through the street selling bags of salt, a scene that no doubt goes back thousands of years.

Most shops here are tiny, particularly in the bazaar -big box retailing has yet to make an appearance in Kurdistan. Even in the modern malls, the shops are small and run by just one or two staff. My large local supermarket is in fact made up of a number of smaller business. Meat, vegetables, stationery, cosmetics and clothes are individual business and you pay for these  separately.

Everywhere are street vendors and the streets are constantly alive to their calls as they make their rounds - naturally they have big loud voices and you can hear them coming from quite a distance.

While the cart is reasonably big, this man is also quite small.

Lentil Soup for breakfast?

Even the name is off putting - lentil soup. And the idea of soup for breakfast is just as unappealing and for a long time I resisted soup for breakfast. However, breakfast soup is very popular here and cafes open very early just to serve soup to those on their way to work (no time to linger over a cappuccino and french toast here!). Eventually tiring of eggs, salad and bread, I finally gave the soup a crack and now I ALWAYS have lentil soup for breakfast.


Lentil soup has the same consistency as split pea soup and actually is a very easy and healthy breakfast food (think of it as a sort of hot vegetable smoothie).

Here is a simple recipe. 

Ingredients:
2 cups orange lentils
4 cups water
1/2 tablespoon salt or 1 chicken bouillon cube
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
One finely chopped onion
 You can add a little curry powder or cumin for variation

 

 1. Wash lentils.
 2. Fill pot with lentils and water, pepper and salt, onion.
 3. Bring to a rapid boil.
 4. Cover, reduce heat to simmer.
 5. Cook 20-25 min until thick and yellow.

At the Motel Mad, the soup is prepared by Alar, a Syrian Kurdish refugee, who, as well as making breakfast, cleans the rooms and  tends the gardens.He teaches me Kurdish words and I teach him the English equivalent. Kurdish soups and stews are often very salty but Alar keeps the salt content well down (I did see one guy shake salt into his soup for a good minute).

Normally Alar smiles a lot but I think he wanted to look 'professional' in the photo. He is the only one working in his family and supports his mother and two sisters who live in a camp outside of the city.

From Overstayer to Resident

This week I was fined 100,000 dinars ($100) for being an illegal immigrant! The excitement never stops in Kurdistan.

My work visa ran out on April 31st and aware of this I went to the immigration office on the Monday prior only to find that they had closed early that week for holidays.

The KRG immigration department is a sprawling complex of buildings with a confushing labyrinth of corridors and offices all dedicated to some obscure process in the visa procedure. It is always packed, mainly with people from Iran, Syria, and Turkey. 

This week I returned to sort it out, only to be told that since my visa had expired I needed to pay a 100,000 dinar. After paying the fine, I then had to apply again for a month visa which was straight forward enough. However, they then suggested that I apply for a year visa (having been illegal just moments before didn't seem to make a difference).

For a year long visa I needed to register with the Asaigh (Security) and have a security check. So I jump in a taxi and head off to the first Asaigh office, but of course with no proper addresses here, the taxi driver doesn't know where it is and I only know the general location. After driving around and asking for half an hour, I then tell the taxi driver to take me back to work so I can ask out Asiagh guard. By this time it is 1.30pm and the offices close at 2.30pm so I decided to try again in the morning.

This time I find the office in a crumbling old mansion and after a long wait I get to see the officer who speaks very good English. I answer a long list of questions some of which are a bit odd. I am asked if I smoke or drink to which I answer that I drink a little water. The officer thinks this is very very funny and writes down 'a little water'. Then I am asked if I am Muslim or Christian (the concept of 'no religion' is totally foreign here and not an option). After saying Christian, he asks 'Catholic, Protestant or All Sorts'. Naturally I can't resist being an 'All Sorts'.

Finally I get my security registration card and catch a taxi to Asaigh office number two about 3km away. This is another dilapidated old building and a officer leads me through narrow corridors and up to a tiny office into which five more officers are crammed. Here a pleasant officer keys my details into a computer and then gives me a clearance. This piece of paper I have to take to yet another office, again packed with about 10 officers where I get a letter to take back to immigration. They are just about to have lunch and are very insistent I join them, but I know if I have lunch I will run late at immigration.

Finally back, getting my residency visa is a quick and cheap (8,000 dinar/$8).

I doubt if the process is any less complicated in New Zealand, but at least here you can get it down very quickly. So within 24 hours I go from Overstayer to Resident.

Not too many NZers can say they have been an illegal immigrate in Iraq. :)))

Halabja

Next week is the 25th anniversary of the chemical attack on Halabja. It was just the worst and best documented of 220 chemical attacks on Iraqi Kurds.

This is a recent documentary. http://www.france24.com/en/20140501-reporters-Halabja-massacre-kurds-saddam-hussein/

Toytown mosque

For those who are familiar with mosques in Turkey, one of their prominent features are the soaring minarets piecing the Turkish skyline. Here the older mosques are tiny and have this toytown look as is they were make from those old fashioned wooden blocks.

While not spectacular they do have a cosy charm all of their own.

Madonal burgers

The familiar golden arches are now open in the heart of Slemani. Love to see McDonalds come and sort out this breach of trade mark. In reality it is just more western style fast food (burgers and pizza)  and just like its western counterparts, Madonal is making Kurds fat. 

Rose tea

Rose flavoured tea is very popular in the middle east and Bwar makes his mix with roses from his garden. It is made in two ways - the first is to pour a small amount of boiling water on to fresh rose petals and after about  five or six minutes add the rose flavoured liquid to the tea. The second is to dry petals and small unopened buds and then just add these to the dry tea leaves. Don't dry the rose petals too much as you want the flavour to permeate the tea leaves. Store as usual and use as normal.