Last week I had to renew my Kurdish work visa and in comparison to last time, it was both easier and more complicated. This time I had to work through Hero Xhan, the President's wife who is the key supporter for the encyclopedia project. Her assistant Azhy arranged for a driver and said that he would phone ahead and make the necessary arrangements. Last time I had an official letter from the Dept of Antiquities, but this time I was going empty handed and feeling uncomfortable about this, I decided to take my contract as well as my passport.
The car arrived just before nine along with a body guard named Karwan who could fortunately speak some English. Arriving at the Immigration Office Karwan made a few phone calls and then we drove off. I am now unperturbed by sudden changes in plan, so I relaxed, unconcerned in the back seat, while we drove to the President's opulent house on the outskirts of the city where we pick up another man who role in this escapade remained unclear throughout. Returning to the Immigration Office, the three of us pushed through the milling crowds of Syrians and Iranians, to meet with an immigration guard who then guided us through a series of offices. Karwan and Mr X had to hand in their guns at the door - guns I hadn't even realised they were carrying, though by now I barely notice guns as they are so common here. Casually I said to Karwan 'Ah you have a gun', and in reply he just grinned and said 'I am a Kurd'.
We traipsed through crowded corridors and busy offices with at least three people checking my passport and Karwan making several phone calls, though to whom I was never sure. Finally came the question of papers which I had anticipated and with a confident flourish I handed over my contract. I knew that the contract was in reality pretty worthless as a document as it had not been counter signed and was with Unesco in Jordon with just one reference to Sulaimaniyah. However, it looked official and did the trick and we continued on our way to the next counter.
In the meantime I discovered that gun toting Karwan was an enthusiastic amateur photographer with a love of trees and flowers so we passed the time looking at his very good photos of flowers, dew drops on leaves and autumn leaves. At the final office Karwan, in typical Kurdish fashion, then insisted on paying for the visa (around $9). Meantime the man whom we had gone out of our way to collect had barely said a word. My guess is that he was an official for Hero Xhan while Karwan was just a security heavy, though in reality Karwan was much smarter and far more useful that kak X.
Now I have a work visa until the middle of December.
