Hawler/Erbil Bombing

The attack by suicide bombers on the security headquarters has shocked Kurdistan and is an ugly reminder that we are still part of Iraq. The city was very quiet here this afternoon and in particular, the supermarkets and cafes were empty. So far 11 people have died, but two of the bombers were killed before they could detonate their bombs. Despite coming during the uncertainty over the election results, it is extremely unlikely that this is related to local politics as the target was Kurdish security forces and not a particular party.

All signs point to an Al Qaeda revenge attack. Two weeks ago Kurdish forces intercepted and killed a group of Al Qaeda fighters trying to enter Kurdistan and large numbers of Kurdish volunteer fighters have crossed over into Syria to protect local Kurds from Al Qaeda and extreme Islamic forces there. The last bombing was in Kurdistan was in 2007 when the same HQ in Erbil came under attack from Al Qaeda.

Lets hope that is the end of it.

The vote counting continues...

A week after the election the official results have not been announced and now not expected until Monday.

The reality is that the results have been finalised, but now is the time for horse trading. Kurdish politics do not split along the familiar left-right continuum, but along family and regional lines. The humiliation of the PUK (Sulaymaniyah/Talibani family) in the vote could cause a very deep split and destablise the regional government. One thing is clear, it will be the KDP (Erbil/Barzani) who will be calling the shots and Sulaymaniyah people won't like that one little bit.

So the final vote count is likely to be 'adjusted' to take in the politically reality and help maintain the political and economically stability which has made Kurdistan prosperous.

Quite likely the status quo will be maintained with a KDP/PUK coalition but with the PUK as a 'junior' party (in the last government the ministerial posts were split 50/50). A coalition government of all parties is also a possibility but effectively does away with an opposition which is hardly democratic.

I will have chips with that

The bad boys of fast food such as McDonalds, KFC, Burger King and Pizza Hut don't exist in Kurdistan, but that hasn't stopped the locals from getting fat without the pulling power of international marketing. Everywhere there are places selling hamburgers, pizza and every greasy combination you like to the think of.

Hamburgers here are pared down,kept simple and rarely contain anything vaguely healthy such as lettuce, tomato or onion and NEVER EVER beetroot. The local version is like driving a truck of fat directly into your arteries. Served on a large bun, the hamburger is just a meat pattie, melted sticky cheese and then topped with chips!!

Blowing your nose in Kurdistan

In Kurdistan you must never blow or wipe your nose in public - go to the toilet or some where public...Really tough if you have a cold.

Election update

With the final results no due out until Thursday, the city, while mostly returning to normal, is still tense. On Monday, armed PUK supporters stormed into the electorate office to demand the voting numbers be changed in their favour.  While no shots were fired, these PUK supporters were clearly making a point that they were well armed.

During the evening there is still a heavy police and army presence along Salim Street and they are not as relaxed as before the election. I have no idea where the authorities have found all these policemen (there are NO policewomen) as when I was here last I only saw the police once and that was just to control an intersection when the Italian Ambassador was in town.

A Kurdish Ninja

Coming back from my morning exercise in Parki Azadi, I was confounded by the extraordinary sight of this ninja like figure running along the road. From their gait I thought the person was a woman, but either gender they presented an amazing sight. Clad from head to toe in black, their face was covered with only the eyes showing and a black strip with white writing in Kurdish script was wrapped around their head. However, the clothing not the normal tight heroic clothing but a heavy material like wool...and it was very warm out.

As well as running in a easy loping style, the ninja was also jumping over low railings and other obstacles emitting a odd loud squeak as they jumped. It was not a sound that inspired confidence in their ninja abilities. Off they went down the road and from the bemused stares of other pedestrians, this is not a typical sight in down town Sulaymaniyah.

Election update

While the official results are yet to be announced, the initial results indicate a major upset in Kurdish politics. Huge gains have been made by the liberal Goran (Change) Party which is now the second largest party after the KDP (Erbil based/Barzani family), pushing the PUK (Sulaymaniyah based/Talibani family) well into third place. More importantly Goran leads in Sulaymaniyah, previously the PUK stronghold.

Once the results were announced on Saturday night Goran supporters hit the streets in the usual rowdy flag waving and car tooting celebration that seems the norm here. Also traditional is the firing of guns in the air, but the police moved quickly to sort that out and the PM asked that people end this practice. Apparently during such celebrations it is best to keep off roof tops as the trigger happy have tendency to wave the guns around without too much thought when firing bullets.

Now things are pretty much back to normal and it is a good reflection on Kurdish political maturity that they can have fair and free elections without the violence that dogs the middle east.

Sunday September 22nd

Am katat bash in Kurdish literately means 'this time good' and is a general greeting that can be used at any time of the day.

This blog is a general diary on life in Kurdistan for those with the time and patience for such things.